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Eating Your Way Through Italy (without taking a big bite out of your wallet!)

by Bernadette Geyer

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Anyone who's ever been a guest on travel in Italy can tell you that a "typical" meal consists of the appetizer, the pasta course, the meat course, and dessert. And, at some more "upscale" restaurants, you will be expected to order every course. 

On a recent business trip to Italy, some of my associates and I found this out the hard way. We had been wined and dined quite nicely all week by our hosts, and by Thursday, we were ready for a bit of a break from the long, heavy meals. Additionally, the bill for all those courses can really add up at a restaurant when you're on a tight budget. Six of us walked into a restaurant on the Piazza near our hotel and were seated by the maitre d'. When the waiter came to take our order, we explained that we were only interested in ordering pasta. 

He immediately became testy with us, explaining that we were expected to order an appetizer, then the pasta course, and then the meat course. We tried once again to explain that we weren't very hungry and just wanted something small to eat. He left us and returned with the maitre d'. Again, we pleaded our lack of hunger, but the maitre d' also got annoyed and began to tell us that the restaurant was famous for its small portions and that we would not be satisfied with just a tiny pasta dish. 

At this point we were becoming very frustrated; it was nearing the end of a very busy week, we were tired, and all we wanted was a little bite to eat before returning to our hotel rooms. We told the maitre d' to give us a few minutes to decide what we wanted to do. After he walked away, we decided the best thing to do would be to leave some money for the bread sticks we ate and to just go find another place for dinner. It was obvious the waiter and maitre d' didn't like us very much and we didn't want to be bullied into spending a lot of money on four courses of food that we weren't going to eat – no matter how "small" the portions were! So, we got up, left 10.000 lira (about US$6.00) for the breadsticks, and walked out. 

As we left, we tried to explain again that all we had wanted was a small meal and that unfortunately, they didn't want us to just order that, so we were leaving. The maitre d' began swearing at us in Italian and told us "Go then, there's a McDonald's around the corner." Upon leaving, we walked across the Piazza we were on, past the McDonald's, and over to a Pizzeria where we all were able to order a simple pizza and a couple of beers. It was a relaxed atmosphere, with very good food and pleasant service. Our cost per head came to about 30.000 lira (US$18.00). 

The moral of the story is, if you're looking for the Italian food experience without dropping a large amount of money on a four-course meal, you don't necessarily have to resort to “fast food.” A good pizzeria will give you the opportunity to dine Italian on a moderate budget. Your hotel's concierge should be able to recommend one nearby. However, make sure you treat yourself to the four-course experience at least once before you leave. After all, when in Rome . . . 

Bernadette Geyer, Arlington, Virginia, USA


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